Thursday, July 19, 2012

Day 6: Waterton to Glacier

Oohhh say can you seeeeeee...



Woke up for sunrise over the Lake.
It was beautiful in person, but lackluster photographically.

Well, this is it.

After an eventful week in Canada, with truly awe-inspiring scenery... it was time to shake off the maple leaves, melt the curling rinks, drop gratuitous "u"s from words like "colour", and say good riddance to that ridiculous metric system. That's right, today my trusty bicycle will bring me home. Back in the U.S.A.

I jest about our northerly neighbor from time to time... and for the most part, it's really not that different. But it's just different enough that it actually made me a little homesick. I missed the familiarity. I missed the stars & stripes, bald eagles, the smell of freedom, and baconnaise.

In short, I missed America.

MURICKA!

Absence makes the heart grow fonder... and today, we would be gloriously reunited.

Also, thanks to the "International Peace Park", I would be able to enter directly into my single favorite place on the continent: Glacier National Park. It's almost more than I could handle.  But first, there's work to be done.  Two small (but steep) climbs to get out of the Waterton Valley... and then into Glacier.

departure shot at the gates of Waterton Lakes National Park.
Reppin' the MSU jersey as a celebration of American blue color work ethic. Spartans will.

early start. long shadows.

This photograph on a plaque discussing the
International Peace Park needs no caption.

I never got a "Welcome" via bicycle, so I'll take it with my farewell. I hope to return soon. Alberta is marvelous.


MURICKA!

wasn't sure exactly where to file in...
I just rolled up with the cars wondering if customs will
check my pannier bags like they were checking trunks

Yes, I am well aware at this point. But thanks for the reminder nonetheless

of these United States, this is certainly one of my favorites.
First of all, riding into a new country on a bicycle is awesome. I would highly encourage it... even if you just get dropped of one mile from customs. Just a unique experience.

"yes... I'm traveling internationally... and uhhh yeah, this is it, I guess."

Secondly, if you ride a bicycle into a new country and that country is the United States, and you are entering at the Chief Mountain Port-of-Entry... you have a pretty serious hill to pedal up. I don't want to call it "killer" because it's not long enough. But it's plenty steep. Really, the word for it is "obnoxious." I was legitimately annoyed.  

I found myself muttering things like "seriously?!" and "why are you so steep?"

When you're talking to the road (or the hill... or really, inanimate objects in general) you're at another level of crazy. 

Once in America (after buying BBQ, fireworks, and a bunch of guns, of course) the ride into Glacier is beautiful. The road was not too busy and winds around Chief Mountain on the Blackfoot Indian Reservation. Chief Mountain (reportedly called "Tower Mountain" by Meriwether Lewis, and "Kings Peak" by British cartographers) is striking, and still sacred to many Native Americans today.

Chief Mountain in the distance.
After winding around Chief Mountain (on the aptly name "Chief Mountain Highway") I joined up with Route 89.  

Route 89 is not particularly fun, because it's busy and full of cars wanting to get some place (mostly either "Glacier National Park" or "home"). People are less patient, the speed limit is 65mph, and really... it's very busy.  There's a pretty wide shoulder, that doesn't really make up for being regularly passed by trucks going 70.

That said, there were still enjoyable moments.

For starters... this school in Babb, MT (just outside the "Many Glacier" section of Glacier National Park):

Babb Elementary School
Couple things to note in this picture. First, yes, that is a cattle guard in front of a school. Second (and this is tougher to see, but) yes, there is a huge statue of a guy riding a bronco in front of the school. It's gotta be at least 12 feet tall.

Every single kid at that elementary school is tougher than you (and would survive longer in a "Hunger Games" scenario).

The other thing to enjoy about Route 89...

It was bringing me closer to where I belong:
the promised land
In the distance are the glacier-sheered peaks that surround St. Mary Lake... one of the most beautiful lakes in the world. I want to go to there.

But before I arrived at the lake... I came upon my REAL destination for the day. Perhaps my single favorite restaurant I've ever patronized:

the greatest eating establishment of all time
The Park Cafe serves delicious food. Especially great breakfast. But mostly... they make homemade pie. The pie is well beyond outstanding. It's sublime... truly, words will not suffice. It is simply impossible for me to communicate how good home made pie is at the end of a long bike ride.

I went with the huckleberry pie. it was heavenly.
If you'd like to dispute my claim that this is the greatest restaurant of all time with a suggestion of your own... my simple question for YOUR choice is "do they serve pie?" followup question: "is it freshly made in a kitchen roughly the size of your kitchen at home?" followup question: "what are my pie options? obviously apple, but can I get huckleberry? boysenberry? are there over a dozen choices that change based on fresh fruit availability?" 

If you can't confidently answer any of the above questions, I'm sorry, but I'm just not that interested in listening to your contenders. Everything else is an "also ran". Nothing beats the Park Cafe.


after delicious pie... I've arrived. my favorite place in the world: Glacier National Park
(also, Go State!)


The road makes its way along St Mary Lake on its way up to glorious Logan Pass. 

Wild Goose Overlook at St Mary Lake

I made it. Wild Goose Overlook at St Mary Lake. This will be my departure point on my climb up Logan Pass. But we are camping in a different part of the park: Many Glacier. So I had someone snap my photo and turn right back around - anxious to get to Many Glacier.

The plan is to camp a couple days in Many Glacier and do some hiking and photography. I'll have a couple nice rest days... then it's on to Logan Pass. At this point, I have enough confidence in the climb, that I'm not even anxious (something unimaginable a couples years ago) - I'm genuinely looking forward to it. I can't wait for the experience of pedaling over Going-To-The-Sun Road on my own power. 

But first, I'm backtracking to camp in Many Glacier.

About 2/3 of the way there, Dad met up with me, pulled over and I got a ride the rest of the way. I had already worked off the pie, and what other point would there be in backtracking the additional miles?

A few days of rest and relaxation in the "Crown of the Continent" - Glacier National Park. 

Life is good.

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