Rest Day: Logan Pass

dream come true

The first time I went to Glacier National Park, in 2006, I flew into the *international* Kalispel Airport. Dad picked me up at the airport and we drove straight into Glacier, through the heart of the Park on what is really the main only road in the Park: Going-To-The-Sun Road.

I had driven on some mountain passes in Colorado (Independence, Monarch, Vail, etc.) but I had never traveled a road like Going-To-The-Sun. It was simply remarkable. You are just so much more *in* the mountains, and the mountains themselves (on account of the glaciers) are so much more angular, so much more dramatic. And thanks to the snowmelt (Colorado is a desert, northwest Montana is not) there were waterfalls everywhere you looks. Everything was so green and alive. And magnificent.

Going-to-the-Sun Road is just that. It is absolutely magnificent. There is nothing I can recommend more highly than a trip to Glacier National Park. It is not in the least bit hyperbolic when I refer to it as my favorite place in the world.

It is spectacular.

...

All that said, you can understand my excitement to finally be able to bicycle Going-to-the-Sun Road (which I will be henceforth referring to as "GTTS"), which cuts through the middle of the park, cresting the continental divide at Logan Pass, and then back down the other side.

On that first visit in 2006, I remember seeing cyclists struggling up the climb to Logan Pass... I remember thinking "that's gotta be the dumbest thing I've ever seen! get a motor, dude!" Those people were insane.

And now... finally... I can officially join the ranks of the insane.

Truthfully, with age has come wisdom, and as I progress toward total consciousness and ultimate enlightenment I have begun to understand this simple truth: the best way to experience new environments (be they wild or urban) is via the bicycle.

The original plan was to take two rest days and the bike the Pass, but the GTTS road had recently been closed because of rock slides after heavy rains, and had just opened today. Furthermore, they were forecasting storms for this afternoon, and there seemed to be some legitimate suspicion among Park employees regarding whether or not the GTTS road could stay open if there were any more rock slides (something that is entirely possibly with sheer cliffs and heavy rains in the mountains).

So after some debating, I decided that I would climb Logan Pass *today*... not go over to the other side, just summit and then back down the same way. We'd spend the rest of the day over in Many Glacier (the best section of the Park).  It's pretty common, except on a long-hike day, for our days on photo trips to break down into morning and afternoon activities. In this case, my morning activity was fulfilling my dream of biking over the Pass (literally once I started planning this trip I had *actually* dreamt about this).

We woke up early to catch sunrise near Many Glacier Lodge.  It's pretty there.

Swiftcurrent Lake, just off the back of Many Glacier Lodge

Inside the Lodge for some post-sunrise warm up coffee

the Lodge is idyllic

We left a situation that, in retrospect, was far more photographically promising than we realized at the time (literally, this is an iPhone snap on the way to the parking lot... why didn't we stay???) so that I could get an early departure on the Pass. (GTTS road is closed to bikes during mid day to cut down on traffic problems. understandable considering how narrow the road is).

the road I cycled yesterday - I was starting to think today might be a bit foggy in the mountains...

departure photo - reppin' the FATCYCLIST jersey for obvious reasons

While I knew I would make it, I was uncertain as to how much I would suffer. But as it happened, I realized a few things:

1. there was minimal wind
2. it was relatively cool
3. the gradient, while significant and constant, was really only "moderate"

Don't get me wrong. I was well aware that I was going uphill. But it was not severe. I never used my lowest gears (or even lowest chainring). I didn't pull over, panting uncontrollably... unable to take another pedal stroke. Actually, I didn't even stop. Just pedaled right on up. I didn't fly up the mountain by any means... but I just constantly churned... and was almost, I daresay, "comfortable" while climbing Logan Pass.

Remarkable.

It was exhilarating, and I'm sure the simple fact that I was accomplishing something I knew I'd be proud of was helping me accomplish it that much easier. But still (and I'll turn this into a #humblebrag so I'm not so blatantly bragging) I was legitimately surprised at how easy is was for such a out of shape chump as myself to bike up Logan Pass.

the climb begins...

One other thing started to become clear as I climbed... and it was not the view.

Riding GTTS road meant that I would be traveling *through* some of the most spectacular scenery on the continent. Fortunately, I had seen it before... and would see it again. Because once I got above Siyeh Bend, I really hardly saw ANY of it.

The fog was not lifting.

on the ascent...

Siyeh Bend... really the last time I'd have anything close to a view

as the road rises, there's a huge drop off to a valley below to the left. I promise it's pretty.

really though, Heavy Runner Mountain (to the left) is breathtaking

near the Weeping Wall

the Weeping Wall (thanks to all the recent rain, and current moisture in the air - sobbing today)

tunnel ahead... which means you should be able to see the summit up to the left........

one of the last bends...

Okay - I get that's a lot of pictures of mostly fog. But the scene (and experience) was surreal. Not just the vast empty abyss beyond what I could see. It was knowing how beautiful everything was despite not being able to see it. Also, the fog made everything incredibly quiet. It was peaceful. Indescribably (and almost eerily) serene.

This is never how I would have imagined it. But taken on the whole, as an experience, in many ways it was far better.

I made it! (and behind me: majestic Mt Oberlin... allegedly)

cliche bike lift photo - tougher with a touring bike (also when you're weak)

And now for the fun. A fast descent the way I came.  I donned a jacket (worked up a sweat on the climb, and it still hadn't warmed up yet), threw on Rattle & Hum, and pointed my bike downhill.

I think in heaven we will all ride bicycles downhill.

I'm running out of superlatives to describe my day. Suffice it to say that I really enjoyed the descent.

Here's a video my Dad recorded on the way down (not knowing we'd cross paths - he records video when he drives. if you're thinking it seems unsafe... congrats - you are a responsible driver).

(uhh... also try to ignore the part where I take out my ipod to change songs. it's safer than it looks. plus I wanted to listen to Helter Skelter again).

Traffic began to increase, and the fog began to dissipate. I start to get slightly perturbed at cars going only 35mph... really slowing me down, and eventually pass them. (this video does not show the pass, probably for the better). But the traffic didn't ruin my ride. It couldn't have.

Made it back to Wild Goose Island Overlook - fog is lifting. That's better...

I love this view.

Hmmm... and what sort of reward can I provide myself for conquering the Pass? Ah, yes. Of course.

Pie.

wanted it so bad, didn't even take a picture until after...
It used to be a warm piece of boysenberry pie, a la mode.

With "bike over Logan Pass" off the agenda, it was time for Dad and I to find something to do.  We had both been wanting to hike the Grinnell Glacier trail, so we decided on that.

Sure, there were storms in the forecast, but weatherpersons are wrong all the time. What possible harm could come from hiking 11 miles roundtrip to an above tree line overlook of Grinnell Lake? It would be beautiful!

Who cares if some nerds were posting signs about storms... we'd probably get back in time. Plus, we only have one more day in Glacier after today.

indoors?! I'm in Glacier National Park!
I'm certainly not hiding from something named "fabio"

Anyway, the hike was beautiful...

Grinnell Lake... and just a couple clouds moving in...

Right up until the part where we got stuck in a thunderstorm. 

The short version is that I ended up pretty much running down the side of a mountain in the middle of a REALLY cold hard rain. And then when the lightning started (and it was everywhere - all around us) I literally huddled under a bush for the better part of half an hour, shivering. Then, after the worst had past, I shuffled on back.

Oh, and we're camping... so changing out of wet clothes and into warm dry clothes without getting the inside of a tent wet and dirty was relatively high on the difficulty scale.

We had food for dinner at camp, but that just wouldn't do. Dinner at Many Glacier Lodge was a must tonight. Great way to warm up.

One more "rest" day, and then the plan calls for the longest day yet...